'Dreams are those which do not let you sleep'.. Indeed climbing the magnificent Baan was on our wish-list from the past 2 years. Knowing the difficulty of the climb, our climbers started prepping their way through both the successive climbing seasons, which bagged the renowned recognition from Girimitra Sammelan as well in the past year! Owning up to the expectations, we decided to surmount the greatest pinnacle in Sahyadri range, a 600ft tall pillar of mixed climbing techniques.. Baan!
To the right of Sandhan Valley, a famous trekking destination near Samrad, Maharashtra, lies a col which traces upwards to the Pinnacle's base, a parlous trek of climbing a few rock patches and traverse through jungle. Information about the traditional climbing route, base locations and experiences gathered from Kaivalya Verma and Santosh Dada of SAK, Ashok Patil sir and Prakash sir of Shailbhramar and 'Ajay Gadgil' dada had given us a lot of insight at our hands. In addition, we made recce treks, which are important at planning stage of any expedition, one in May and the other in December beginning. These treks helped us decide about the following points:
1. It's best to have a guide from the village to find the best route to ascend in tricky trails,
in order to avoid dangerous traverses as we will be carrying load with us.
2. There are 2 good locations for base camp, one at the middle of this col about 500ft away and
one nearly 150 ft away from Baan main climbing base. Judging by the availability of water, food
preparation convenience and safety from rockfall, we planned to set up camp at the farther point.
From here, in case of need, we can even set up an advance base camp at a small plateau 15mins
towards the right.
3. Main climbing route has about 15 to 20 honeycombs right next to a few patches/moves. Thus it
should be avoided and the path from right (from base) side col needs to be chosen for climbing.
Apart from this, prior to the expedition we had a lot of equipment gathering from SAK, Petzl, Nandu Chavhan, Ganesh Geedh and Kaivalya Verma. Collection and packing of the food and equipment was a collaborative weeklong task completed by Parag, Raj, Neha, Pratik, Sumukh, Triveni, Abhishek, Pallavi and Vaidehi.
The moment had arrived! On the night of 24th December our team of 12 reached the base village Varpadi, Dehne near Dolkhamb, ahead of Asangaon. On early morning the next day, our trek began with Valku Mama (our guide, contact: c/o Madhukar Kongere +91 92092 17493) porters carrying our major equipment burden. We need to continue walking to the south-west following Ratangad's Khutta as we start on the trail from the village for about an hour. After crossing the dried out river, there is a small hill climb to reach Sandhan Valley camp base to its right. To our disappointment, the porters denied to carry the bags allotted to them as the ascent began towards the right (Nalichi vaat) here! After some negotiation, they agreed to reduce a few kgs, some of our team members had to carry their share and we moved ahead. By mid-afternoon, we reached the base camp and started unpacking our equipment and food by setting 2 separate tents for both. A triple chulha (chool) arrangement was made by Raj which we used to quickly make tea! After having some biscuits and tea, Abhishek, Rahool and Amol our lead team for the next day went towards the base of Baan from right side col route with Mama to clean up and set the trail. Their aim for the evening was to begin with the first firm anchor above the 150 ft scree by placing a hanger and fixing a 200 ft rope in this 20-25ft Chimney and loose rock path at the base of the climbing route.
Following them, Sumukh, Pratik and Parag also went for photography; but by the left side col, straight up from the base camp to reach a fine spot giving coverage of the entire climbing route, a tabletop across Baan. We had borrowed 4 walky-talky sets from Ganesh for communication between our teams and the base. At the base, the girls and Varad were noting lessons from Raj as next day managing base camp was going to be their responsibility. The first anchor was successfully placed by 6:30 in the evening and our teams returned to the base camp to find tomato Soup and Amti-Bhaat (curry-rice) prepared for them!
The next morning Neha and Parag woke up to make everyone realize their sins throughout their lives to suffer the pain of having to wake up by 6am, a necessary evil on any expedition! One has to wake up on time with discipline and get ready, a strict rule diligently marked in this expedition. Somehow even through the comfort of the sleeping bags, a spirit of expedition kicked in and everyone was done with their share of duties by 7 am. With Upma breakfast and tea, our first team took off. An hour later, we received their call on walky that Rahool was leading with Abhishek at his belay. The route begins with a slanting rightwards walk, with less tricky moves; but adjusting your body pressure is the key for this climb. The footholds are all loose rocks of Baan and a single mistake may lead to a fall. Balancing his weight diligently at each step, Rahool began ascending. About 30-35ft ahead, you reach the open book climb's base. Placing a bolt at the beginning of this technical patch, he started climbing using the crack dividing the open book and tiny pinch holds over the extremely smooth page-like spread surfaces. It is required to use peg and pitton anchors in this path, as there are too less available firm natural holds. Thus securing oneself at the current point is essential to reduce the fall factor risks. To guide and support the active members, second team of Raj, Sumukh and Parag had reached the col by now. The climbing and anchoring was going at a steady pace till about 60ft, when suddenly Rahool slipped and took a 10ft fall. For the moment, subconscious reflex took the better of him and unfortunately he held the rope for support.. leading to getting bruised (rope burn) hand and fingers. As a consequence, Abhishek went to the last anchor point to begin as the lead. After the open book, there is a horse-shaped ledge to the right where Abhishek reached, anchored himself and then after some mana:shanti (peace of mind) intervals surrounded by honeybees, he covered the remaining straight upwards route to reach a tree anchor at a spacious ledge.
Sumukh went behind Abhya to this ledge along with Parag. Here, after climbing about 15ft to the right, a 100ft straight wall starts where leftwards chain bolting is the only way to go. This method is about fixing expansion bolts at a suitable distance to cross a patch where there is scarce any scope for climbing, with the help of ladders to gain height at each step. Parag, Sumukh and Amol were our chosen climbers for this task, as their height and nimbleness shall be an added advantage to optimize the bolt usage. Whilst Sumukh fixed a hanger on the ledge, with Abhya's belay, Parag managed to fix 5 bolts to cover about 25 ft height and we were done for the day. Meanwhile, Jaggu and Vinayak who arrived today had reached the photography point to supervise and capture the climb in their frames. Coming back to the base, everyone relaxed with tea and dinner. The day's summary was discussed by Rahool, Raj Vinayak and Neha and we all tried to understand our mistakes from experience to note for further improvement.
The third day, we set out at pre-decided timings to plan for lead team along with as many other members as possible to summit. Baan is a pinnacle which sheds its scales daily like a cobra wrapped around the neck of Ratangad's khutta. Rockfall due to natural erosion was bound to happen, the only quest was how and when. A rock falling from atop a huge pinnacle gains velocity as it falls down and may damage or even cut a rope, leaving the mountaineers helpless. It's our inbuilt judgement to trust the equipment but what if the equipment is in danger! Our families, friends would advise us to not try to taste the venom, yet we were all there, trusting in the unknown, living not only on the edge, but on the tip of the knife. With our gear intact, Raj, Pratik, Amol, Triveni, Pallavi with Abhishek, and Rahool went to the huge ledge one after another. Safe anchors were placed for different tasks: 1 for jumarring and belay till here for newbies ducked from the col by Sumukh, 1 for securing free movement of members on the ledge and last one for belaying the climber. Vinayak and Parag were at the tabletop today to guide Abhishek as they had whole view advantage. Working in parallel, time was managed so that we may be able to spare a day for traditional route climb. As we know an expedition is characterized by its uncertainty, so despite of our arduous efforts, the chain bolting took a longer time than expected. Amol had crossed about 20ft with the help of old bolts and Abhishek was done with chain bolting covering 60 ft in 8 bolts. He started with lead climbing leaving the ladders' comfort behind with about 30 ft from the top to surmount. The darkest hour of night comes before the dawn.. here the dawn was so in glimpse of our eyes yet the feet lacked confidence due to dangerous high grade slope and scree.
A climbers strength is divided in his limbs and his mind. With a boost from the cheers of other members, Abhishek gathered his heart and went ahead using peg, penetrating his way inside Baan's scalp. There are many small shrubs (mulya) over here which may appear strong at the time of recce, but when Abhya was facing the hardships of taking risky steps on them then we were realizing the pressure of his momentous shifts. Taking calculated steps with technique at hand, Abhishek reached the top to find leftout slings at natural tree stem anchors. He found an empty camera roll container, in which the climbers used to put a paper with their names as a memory, in the 90's. 10 years, this top had seen no man and today a climber was touching it. With a shout of 'Ganpati Bappa Moraya!' by evening, our team decided to wrap up for the day and returned back to the base camp.
The next day was a plan for our less experienced members to summit the pinnacle. Abhishek and Rahool went first by the last day's cowtail fixed at the top to clear out the loose rocks which may fall on the team members below the wall. A 450ft semidynamic rope was doubly used to make 2 routes for rest of the team to jumar. Triveni and Pratik went first for the last 100 ft. Raj and Pallavi followed them and the first group pictures were taken at the top. Jumar ropes had a thrilling 360° panoramic view of the whole scene as they were ascending on overhang part of the rope. We had to be extra careful, as any rock slipping by our feet or the equipment friction on the wall may fall with great speed. Our team on the ledge and Vinayak, who had descended below to try bolting for main route climb and set a rappel route, ducked as much as possible with 'watchout' calling. Time was of paramount importance as our aim for this expedition was taking our entire team to the top!
As they departed from the big ledge, base camp members were summoned to the col. Sumukh went up to the ledge for his turn of the summit. Our guide Mama had also made an effort to jumar with Sumukh's aid which was indeed his memorable experience. On the way, handing off equipments to Neha, Varad, Prashant and Vaidehi, Triveni and Pallavi set out to reach basecamp for dinner preparations. Rahool also went ahead as he had to leave today for urgent work. Due to lack of so many helmets, Pratik coordinated to decide who all went ahead of the safe chimney patch. Meanwhile, Parag set about withdrawing the QDs in first climbing rope to reach the top. Considering the time and equipment limitations, Neha and Varad were given the opportunity to make it to the top today, Neha jumarring with a leg sprain and Varad a first timer on the wall! Today, as Vinayak had set the route by mid day, rappelling the wholesome gigantesque Baan was a jackpot for the last ferry.
The fifth and the final day started earlier than usual. While most of the team was given lax time at basecamp, Raj, Abhishek, Amol, Vaidehi, Vinayak and Jaggu went to summit by jumar and Sumukh stayed at the col for ducking new members. Amol and Vinayak went to the top first. Sometimes, even if body strength is enough, it's about grasping the technique when it comes to using climbing equipment. Being his first time on the wall with jumar, Prashant faced a few problems to learn jumarring and took the decision to rappel down. After him Vaidehi went to the top and rappelled to the main route base side directly into the col. Wind up of an expedition is a crucial task. On account of the experience and thoughtfulness of the anchoring as well as wrap up team, with Raj's guidance, the wind up was covered in a surprisingly short time! To top it all, porters from the village had come to checkout the climb and helped to carry such heavy ropes back to the base! base camp was already cleared out so a quick equipment packing and breakfast interval later, we began trekking down Baan's tricky trail to reach the base village by late evening.
Everyday on this expedition was a different experience for those on the wall as well as at the base! We had 'Bahadur', the radio with us, playing songs whilst we enjoyed our chores, assigned tasks and campfires. Baan being on the south-west, had a stunning moonlight throughout each night. Brilliantly studded with sparkling traveller of the night sky, Baan's magnificence glowed brighter near the dawn, bestowing upon us travellers of mountains, the fortune to witness a sight so ineffable and unworldly.
Our greatest fear on this expedition was the honeybees residing near the climbing route which would attack even on the slightest hint of danger. We all felt indebted to the God or any force that has programmed them to act on their instinct and go about their activity without disturbing anybody for no reason. We maintained complete silence and slow, movements to not anger them unnecessarily, after all, we were the ones trespassing in their adobe. Indeed we experienced a positive side of 'inhuman' behaviour when no bees attacked our cliffhangers. Even when they used to surround us on their water breaks, we used to take precautionary halts, cover ourselves completely and stop calling for a few minutes which didn't cause any delay in our expedition plans. Gathering from the valuable experiences of Arun Sawant sir, we had kept the necessary medicines and sleeping bags at hand.
Our safe return and this unfathomable knowledge of achievement will be stationed at our hearts for a lifetime! Needless to say, the entire team of Amhi Giryarohak and Nisargamitra and all its members who were supporting directly as well as indirectly have made it to Baan top with us. Who knows, maybe one day when image files and blogs are obsolete, someone might be fortunate to re-live our adventure through these memory logs as we did in those empty roll containers...
THE TEAM!